On the forest track down to the beach you suddenly come to a clearing. When the swell is pumping and the waves are clean and perfection itself, a roar echoes through the valley. As you step into the clearing there is a sudden growl from the ocean. It’s like the cheer of a psyched -up crowd on match day at a local derby…
‘I’m here, I’m here! Hang on, I’m on my way!’
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